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A Contemporary Textile Rooted in History

by Rose Hairane, Curatorial Assistant for South Asian Art, Islamic Art & Antiquities and Megan Nauer, Acting Curator for Fashion Arts & Textiles

4/16/2026

Contemporary Art , South Asian Art , textiles

The Curatorial departments of Fashion Arts & Textiles and South Asian Art, Islamic Art & Antiquities often collaborate, most recently on the acquisition of Lavanya Mani’s Tree of Life. This large, brightly colored textile combines the historic technique of kalamkari with contemporary commentary.

Using multiple baths of hand formulated natural dyes, kalamkari textiles primarily flourished on India’s southeastern Coromandel coast and were heavily traded during the seventeenth to nineteenth centuries between India, Southeast Asia, and Europe.

The artist uses the kalamkari technique to depict a flourishing “tree of life,” most often understood as representing life and abundance. Here, however, the tree is surrounded by imagery of guns, fighter jets, and grenades. Incorporating kalamkari, embroidery, and appliqué, Mani (based in Bangalore, India) creates dialogues between past and present. In her practice she addresses colonialism, environmentalism, and cultural interaction, engaging with the complicated and nuanced history of South Asian textile arts.

On view through December 2026 in the Anu and Shekhar Mitra Gallery for South Asian Art (G143).