Gilbert Albert (Swiss, 1930–2019), Bracelet and Brooch, 1960s, gold, pearls, diamonds, ammonite fossils
This combination bracelet and brooch was made in the 1960s by Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert who lived from 1930–2019.
When put together, this bracelet and brooch look like an owl’s face. The yellow gold is textured to look like feathers; the large eyes are made with dark brown spiraling ammonite fossils; and the beak is represented by a pear-shaped pearl. A large group of pearls sit on what would be the owl’s forehead. Faceted small diamonds form an upside-down ‘Y’ between the eyes and a single small diamond is set in the center of each eye. When taken apart, the brooch looks like the owl’s face and the bracelet is low in the front and back and scoops upward at each side.
This combination bracelet and brooch was made in the 1960s by Swiss jeweler Gilbert Albert who lived from 1930–2019.
Like many of the artists shown in these galleries, Gilbert Albert’s name is not generally known except among jewelry scholars, but he was one of the most celebrated artist-jewelers of the period. Albert won the prestigious Diamond International Award ten times and was honored as an Associate Member of the Goldsmiths’ Company, reserved as an accolade for foreign personages, in 1966. He was also included in the 1961 International Exhibition of Modern Jewellery, showing the most works by an individual artist.
Often referred to as a sculptor, Albert worked primarily in gold and epitomized the avant-garde style of the 1960s and ‘70s. The textured surface seen here approximates the feathers of an owl. The spiraling ammonite fossils form the characteristic large eyes, and a dangling teardrop-shaped pearl stands in for the beak. This piece can be worn as is or taken apart to form a separate bracelet and brooch.
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