René Morin (b. 1932), designer, Chaumet (French, est. 1780), manufacturer, Bull Bracelet, 1970s, gold, lapis lazuli, rubies, diamonds

Audio Description

This bracelet was designed in the 1970s by René Morin, who was a French jewelry designer born in 1932. It was manufactured by French jewelry house Chaumet, established in 1780.

This rigid bracelet has a textured surface. One end has a carved bull’s head, which has a collar of small, faceted diamonds, ruby eyes, curved horns, and a large bead of lapis lazuli set in the crown of the skull. Small, faceted diamonds are also set in the forehead and down the nose of the bull. The other end is carved to resemble a bull’s tail and has a collar of small, faceted diamonds.

Label Copy

This bracelet was designed in the 1970s by René Morin, who was a French jewelry designer born in 1932. It was manufactured by French jewelry house Chaumet, established in 1780.

In 1967, the musical Hair premiered off-Broadway in New York City. Its hit song Aquarius brought to life the zodiac to a wide-ranging audience. Few and far between were those who did not read their daily horoscope in the newspaper in the 1970s. A cultural fascination with astrology was born, and the twelve zodiac signs were quickly adopted as motifs by both designers and manufacturers.

Jewelry was no exception to this trend and, while inexpensive necklaces, pendants, and pins were easily found in the marketplace, fine jewelers created their own versions. This rigid bracelet with a bull’s head and tail mimics Taurus—an April to May astrological sign. Designed by René Morin, his first experimental piece for Chaumet was the Unicorn designed in 1965—a brooch fashioned from an uncut piece of lapis lazuli. It was followed by the Minotaur with versions as both a brooch and a bracelet; and this bracelet followed.

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