Behind the Scenes in Conservation: Beyond t-shirts and jeans …
by Obie Linn, Conservator of Textiles
2/13/2025
How many different fabrics are you wearing right now? Two? A t-shirt (cotton knit) and jeans (cotton denim blend)? You can find quite a few more in this complex, multi-layered ensemble of bodice and skirt from 1889–1890. Check out the materials listed below and see how many you can spot in the slide show:
- burgundy silk velvet
- silk satin brocade
- pink silk satin
- silk-embroidered silk chiffon (ruffle)
- burgundy silk taffeta (lining)
- burgundy silk satin (facing)
- cream silk taffeta (facing)
- wool twill (hem facing)
- cotton lace (dust ruffle)
- starched cotton gauze (facing)
- wool stiffener (interior)
- wool cord (hem tape)
Perhaps, I’m the only person in the world who will fan-girl over wool cord hem tape hidden three layers deep in a gown—but maybe after contemplating our modern-day t-shirt and jeans ensembles, you all will be fanning yourselves too!
The garments will be on display in Gallery 150 beginning February 25, 2025, thanks to the support of Joan P. Baily and family who generously gifted a range of vintage fashions to the museum.
Reference photos of front and side views (she’ll look much better if you come see her in person!) and a detail of the interior of the skirt hem. Inside the skirt hem, at least 4 different fabrics are visible, doing the important--but hidden--work that makes this skirt behave in a specific, desired way.
N. Rodrigues et Cie (French, est. 1870-1893), Dress: bodice and skirt, 1889-1890, silk, wool, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Oliver Lippincott Baily, 208.283a-b
Reference photos of front and side views (she’ll look much better if you come see her in person!) and a detail of the interior of the skirt hem. Inside the skirt hem, at least 4 different fabrics are visible, doing the important--but hidden--work that makes this skirt behave in a specific, desired way.
N. Rodrigues et Cie (French, est. 1870-1893), Dress: bodice and skirt, 1889-1890, silk, wool, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Oliver Lippincott Baily, 208.283a-b
Reference photos of front and side views (she’ll look much better if you come see her in person!) and a detail of the interior of the skirt hem. Inside the skirt hem, at least 4 different fabrics are visible, doing the important--but hidden--work that makes this skirt behave in a specific, desired way.
N. Rodrigues et Cie (French, est. 1870-1893), Dress: bodice and skirt, 1889-1890, silk, wool, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Oliver Lippincott Baily, 208.283a-b
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