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Behind the Scenes in Conservation: Let There Be LIGHT(ening)!

by Obie Linn, Conservator of Textiles

10/10/2024

CAMConservation , textile conservation , 1890s fashion , Cincinnati Wing

In the textile conservation lab, a three-piece 1890s cotton muslin ensemble arrived for treatment! She might be going on display in the Cincinnati Wing in February 2025, but only if I can make her look better; she was yellowed, dingy, sad, and limp. Could the ensemble be lightened? Challenge accepted!

The first step was wet cleaning. Each piece was soaked, then sponged in a tray of warm, soapy water. The color of the runoff water was encouraging! There seemed to be a lot of solubilized yellow gunk leaving our ensemble.

Next, all three pieces underwent light bleaching. They spent several hours “sunbathing” in a shallow pool of water (with no chemical bleaches) while the textile conservator played the part of doting “pool boy,” rotating the textiles and bringing refreshment. (Sadly, just water for these old girls!)

Light bleaching is a historical technique for lightening cotton fabrics, but we can only use it under very specific circumstances in modern, ethical conservation. This ensemble fit the bill because it’s all cotton, white or natural-colored (no dyes), and may very well have been cared for this way in the past, during its “working life.” It was also the preferred lightening technique using sunlight and water over chemical bleaching options in this case.

After their “pool day,” each piece of the ensemble was rinsed in fresh, deionized water and patted dry. They were pressed with a damp pressing cloth and the heated spatula. Finally, to present the ensemble in the best light to convince the curator this ensemble should get its spot in the Cincinnati Wing in February, the ensemble was dressed on a mannequin (complete with stuffing for the “bustle,” paper wig, and gloved hands). Much lighter! Are you convinced this ensemble deserves a rotation? Stay tuned to see if it gets to see the light of the gallery in February!

An intricate white blouse with yellowed color

Before treatment pictures of the bodice and overskirt, yellowed and limp.

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

An intricate white skirt with yellowing

Before treatment pictures of the bodice and overskirt, yellowed and limp.

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

A white woman with purple hair washes the yellowed blouse and skirt in a large utility sink

Wet cleaning underway! Textile Conservator, Chandra Obie Linn, tilts the wash tray to drain the soiled, soapy water during washing of one of the skirts. The tanks at the lower right are the deionized water system that produces super-pure water used to care for historic textiles. That yellowed runoff water seems promising ….

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

Yellow liquid runs off the skirt and blouse in the sink

A view of the underskirt in the wash tray. The yellowed water with a slight grey tinge in the right corner is reassuring evidence that yellowing and soiling is on its way down the drain and no longer lodged in our cotton ensemble.

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

The wet skirt and blouse sit in the sun

The overskirt (left) and underskirt (right) enjoying their “pool day,” full sun in a shallow, sun-heated pool (built of plastic sheeting over pool noodles and cardboard tubes). Glass weights help keep the pieces submerged (look for the slightly blue square shapes).

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

The blouse is less yellow

After treatment pictures of the bodice and overskirt. Light and airy!

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

The skirt is now much whiter and less yellow

After treatment pictures of the bodice and overskirt. Light and airy!

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

The blouse and skirt on a white mannequin

Dressed on a mannequin to help the ensemble look its best for decision time. What will the curator think? What would you decide? Is this ensemble gallery-ready?

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

The back of the blouse and skirt on the mannequin

Dressed on a mannequin to help the ensemble look its best for decision time. What will the curator think? What would you decide? Is this ensemble gallery-ready?

Wedding dress: bodice, skirt, and overskirt, 1880–81, Cincinnati, OH, cotton, Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Milton Kornmann, 1986.1118a-c

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