by Obie Linn, Associate Conservator of Textiles
7/27/2023
Ann Lowe , CAMConservation , 1930s fashion , textile conservation , Winterthur Museum
How would you like to travel in a custom “sleeping bag”? These three dresses designed by Ann Lowe (American, 1898–1981) are headed to the Winterthur Museum in Delaware for the exhibition Ann Lowe: American Couturier, snuggled in soft surrounds for a safe and comfortable trip.
When fashion pieces such as these travel, they are usually packed in archival boxes with pads of tissue paper or other material to soften the folds and help prevent damage from creasing or abrasion. Here at the museum, we are always looking for ways to make our choices more sustainable, as well as provide the best care for objects. So instead of tissue paper, I made custom pillows, pads, and interleaving sheets from reusable and conservation-friendly materials.
These boxes are outfitted with cushions made of resin-free polyester batting covered in polyester lining fabrics. Shaped pillows inside each dress provide the same (or better!) support while they travel. Hemmed sheets of polyester fabric also interleave layers and provide a final cover on top. All the seams are double sewn (“French seams”) so there are no stray, catching threads from the padding to get caught on the objects.
When the dresses come home, the padding will be retained for future fashion loans—instead of thrown away like the tissue paper we used to rely upon. Snuggly! And more sustainable!
The three dresses, side by side in their boxes, ready for their box lids! The white pillows around the blue and white dress on the left keep it from sliding back and forth during the journey. The other dresses have belts, outfitted with fabric slip covers and laid flat on top.
The three dresses without their top covers so you can see how the folds are softened by shaped interior pillows.
The blue and white dress has a jacket! Its box has an additional layer (held up by strips of dense, conservation-safe foam risers and a shelf of archival cardboard). The jacket lays flat on the bottom layer, also padded, and covered before its dress sits on top.
Ann Lowe (American, 1898–1981), Dress and Belt, 1930–34, silk, Anonymous Gift, 1999.810a-b
Ann Lowe (American, 1898–1981), Dress and Belt, 1930–34, silk, Anonymous Gift, 1999.810a-b
Ann Lowe (American, 1898–1981), Dress and Belt, 1935–38, silk, Anonymous Gift, 1999.811a-b
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